on going to les goudes on a good day
Going to the small fishing village, Les Goudes, on the edge of the calanques de Marseille is fun.
If you have a car, no problem. Follow the Corniche from Marseille to Madrague de Montredon and turn inland a bit and re-emerge on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea et voilà. You are there. Of course, you must deal with the traffic and the gas can be expensive and you might be involved in an accident because you were too distracted while looking at the Mediterranean Sea.
The adventure, however, will happen when you take buses. Three buses, in fact. It will take some planning and knowledge of the bus schedules. RTM, the public transportation application for smart phones, has the schedules.
Why bother going to Les Goudes in the first place? The panoramic views on the way to Les Goudes along the Corniche are gorgeous and vast. Secondly, you will go to eat freshly caught fish. Granted, you can order fish in a restaurant in Marseille, but Les Goudes is a small fishing village, away from the big noisy city, and picturesque, and it has some good restaurants with terraces. You might want to hike, and there are plenty of places to walk, on trails or not. You are on the edge of the calanques. (Click on any photo to see it larger and in more detail. Cliquez sur une vignette pour l’agrandir.)
Taking buses to Les Goudes requires knowing the schedules for the routes #83, #19, and #20. You take bus #83 to the stop “La Plage” going in the direction of of “Métro Rond Point du Prado”. You can catch that bus from the Vieux Port. (Be sure to stand or sit on the right side of the bus so you can admire the views.) Get off at “La Plage,” cross the street, and take the bus #19 to the end of the route, which will be the stop “Madrague de Montredon.” (Repeat: be sure to stand or sit on the right side of the bus so you can better admire the views.) The bus #20 to Les Goudes leaves from that stop.
The ride to Les Goudes will last maybe five minutes. You can get off at the stops “Les Goudes” or “Delabre Pelaprat,” which is closer to the port and the restaurants. After “Delabre Pelaprat,” the bus has one final stop at Callelongue, an even smaller village than Les Goudes. (Click on any photo to see it larger and in more detail. Cliquez sur une vignette pour l’agrandir.)
I suggest going in the morning and arriving around 11:00, or if you plan to hike then a time much earlier would be better. To reach Les Goudes at your hour and to make the best bus connections, you should start the planning with the bus #20 schedule. It does not run as often as the #83 and the #19. (Click on any photo to see it larger and in more detail. Cliquez sur une vignette pour l’agrandir.)
The return to Marseille is easier to plan. After choosing the time for leaving and then arriving at the “Madrague de Montredon” stop, the #19 buss will be there, waiting, or it will arrive soon. Reversing the trip, you go to the stop “La Plage,” cross the street, and catch the next #83 bus back to central Marseille. (Click on any photo to see it larger and in more detail. Cliquez sur une vignette pour l’agrandir.)
I chose to eat lunch at L’Esplaï du Grand Bar des Goudes. it is on the port and has a view. If you want a good table, it will be necessary to reserve. It is popular and good. The French will drive out for lunch. Click on any photo to see it larger and in more detail. Cliquez sur une vignette pour l’agrandir.)
I asked about the recent catches. He suggested une daurade, because the other fish were too large and were more suitable for two persons. A scale sits next to the fish bin, the fish you choose is weighed, and you are charged 8 € per 100 grams.